One and a half hour from Gdansk, going mostly south and a bit west, is a tiny hamlet of an improbable name of Jaszczerz, pronounced Yashtchezh. There are 27 homes and as many families. Some are owned by those who spend their summer months in this amazing country of forests, lakes and meadows, some are occupied by folks who live here year-round. Those who live here permanently support themselves from picking mushrooms, berries and other forest goods during the summer, and during the winter they work in local factories. The children of these folks are educated and ambitious, trying for universities and colleges in Gdansk, one of the 5 largest city in this part of Europe. One neighbor's son has a masters in mathematics and the other's child is now passing exams to get a free scholarship in biology to Gdansk University. Another is teaching physics in Glasgow. Amazing for a small village, but not surprising considering the drive of the parents and children to educate themselves when the opportunity has entered under the thatched roofs.
The lack of practically everything but fresh air propels these children to educate themselves to move on, to go to the cities and do something other than picking forest goods for a living. It is amazing how ambitious they are and how enterprising. Anything to move to the city. Their grandparents often live in homes from the 17th and 18th century, without plumbing, without any improvements. There are open cesspools, there are pigs roaming the fields, the chickens own the road and let you know about it by loud clucking and the roosters attack the wheels of passing cars.
The forests are pristine, although very controlled. All broken branches, dry wood, dead wood is picked clean for kitchen fires, where most of the cooking is done on the old stoves with a real fire under the pots. The laundry is now done in modern washers, but still dried on lines, because it's considered healthier that way. Most homes look ancient from outside, but inside are spotless. Cleanliness is considered a mark of normalcy. Some people have gardens and orchards which sport varieties of fruit unknown anywhere else. When asked about the name of this apple tree, that pear tree, they say "grandmother's" or great-grandfather's", that's all. No names, no other indication. I wish I knew how to take cuttings to bring them back.
There are homes brick-built in the previous 2-3 centuries which are still standing strong and are now bought out by the "city" people and renovated to the standards of our century inside, and 18th century outside. One house's roof in the village is now being re-covered in reeds from the local lake to replicate the old thatched roofs, done by those who still remember how to craft them. The shores of the local lakes are stuffed with reeds and all access to the lakes has to be cut out to be able to launch kayaks and boats for the tourists.
This time of the year everyone is getting ready for the tourist season. The only local restaurant is closed because the entire crew is passing exams to the University at this time, and once they pass they will work here in the summer, and go to the University in the Fall.
The work situation in Poland is amazing - more work than people willing to work. Many have left Poland for work in Ireland and England, because the exchange rate was so very profitable. However, the recent fall of the dollar and the strong standing of Polish currency, Zloty, is starting to reverse the situation.People are coming back with the money they have earned in other countries and setting up businesses in Poland. The market is vibrant, the money is visible everywhere - renovations, new roads, buildings being painted, stores full of goods, weekend markets thriving, new cars, new stores, restaurants with profiles unknown before - Greek, Mexican, Chinese. Amazing in a country so xenophobic that any foreign word used to spin people into hate. Now, however, the children are bringing the Internet home and the information, the most important weapon in homogenization of Europe, is making amazing inroads into the backwoods of this country.
In my little world here, we are cooking 10-mile meals and drinking 10-mile beers. Yummy!
I will try to get a connection in the next day or so, but who knows. For now, I will drive the 10 kilometers to the local "big" town of 2 thousand people to find the only Internet cafe to post this information. I will try again on Monday, because Sunday is a sacred day and everything, I mean EVERYTHING is closed on Sunday, so Monday is the next sane day. Toodles for now.